|
More
articles by Bob |
-
-

By Bob LaFord GWRRA #126196 Petersham, Massachusetts
February 2004 - Wing World Magazine
- Wintertime in New England; it is cold, snowy, icy. Travel via four wheels is considered treacherous; two-wheeled travel is unimaginable. The winter solstice gives us ample time to reminisce over past travels and dream of travels to come. What destinations lie ahead, what routes to take, what have others said who have gone before?
-
-
In August, the Red Knights (firefighters) Motorcycle Club (www.redknightsmc.org) sponsors an annual international convention; the hosting chapter is always in a different location. When the host chapter for 2003 was announced as Laval, Quebec, Canada, several Red Knights from central Massachusetts exuberantly envisioned extending our tour beyond the Montreal area. The participants were three couples from Massachusetts: Ed & Peg Brouillet on their 1997 Honda Gold Wing, Bob & Diona Laford on their 1985 Gold Wing, and Cliff & Marty Eldridge Cliff on his 1999 Valkarie Interstate and Marty on her 2002 Honda Shadow.
People we spoke to insisted we should ride the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia, so that destination became the primary focus while planning the route. We knew the Provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick would also offer wonderful vistas, but nothing would compare to the great riding and the breathtaking scenery in Nova Scotia.
The trip also took us through great riding roads in the Green Mountains of Vermont. While traversing fantastic motorcycle roads like Route 100 through Vermont, you enjoy farms and rolling fields dotted with grazing cattle or golden tasseled corn awaiting harvest.
In Quebec, the route took us along the St. Lawrence River where we enjoyed the peaceful countryside; the roads are straight and cut through pastures bordered with evergreens and hardwood tree stands. We traveled east and climbed out of the St. Lawrence River Valley into the mountain ranges while en route to New Brunswick. The roads are picture perfect. As we rose in elevation exiting Quebec, we were greeted with miles of evergreen forests. Logging trucks passed by, filling the air with the sweet smell of pine from their recently harvested cargo. The terrain offered views of mountain lakes, rivers, and streams. We paralleled the St. John for awhile; the river was running high and fast, and many of the lowlands were in a flood watch.
We made a tourist stop at Grand Falls at the intersection of Routes 2 and 108 in New Brunswick. We watched the water of the St. Johns roar over the falls and into the gorge in the center of town. It was an awe-inspiring view, seeing millions of gallons of water pass through the flood control gates and into the gorge. During the rivers highest stages of the year, normally the spring run-off, the capacity of the falls is nine-tenths that of Niagara Falls.
Later the same day we rode along the New Brunswick coastline and headed for Nova Scotia. Ed Brouillet termed our riding day as a 95-percent day. Great weather, great roads, great riding, and great friends. That turned out to be our mantra for the trip as each of our Nova Scotia days offered us more of the same great pleasures of a 95-percent day.
Nova Scotia divides its beautiful province into trails. There are ten different Trail Regions in the province. What is remarkable and makes Nova Scotia so enjoyable is the diversity of scenery and attractions on each of the trails. We were able to ride on only five of the ten travel ways. That left us with ample appetite to return to explore parts of the province that we missed. For more information and details on each of the available scenic routes, contact the Nova Scotias Department of Tourism at www.NovaScotia.com and get a copy of the Motorcycle Tour Guide of Nova Scotia at www.motorcycletourguidens.com.
We entered Nova Scotia and decided to take Route 6 out of Amherst, the Sunrise Trail. The route we followed offered great seashore views, as well as stops along the way in Pugwash, Wallace and Picteau for antique window shopping and visiting with the friendly residents. To one side of the road were beautiful views of the ocean; to the other side was the Nova Scotia countryside. The winding coast road brought us in and out of little hamlets, inlets and harbors stopping along the rocky shoreline for an occasional break to watch gulls feeding and fishermen working on the water.
Our day ended in Aulds Cove, on the mainland side of the causeway leading to the base of Cape Breton Island. A must stop if you are planning a ride to Nova Scotia is the Cove Motel (www.covemotel.com). We pulled off the highway at the motels roadside sign and worked our way down the tree-lined drive. We picked this destination because of its proximity to the Cabot Trail and found information on the motel via the Internet. When the motel came into view it was a great ending to that 95-percent day. The well-kept building and grounds sit on a peninsula in Georges Bay, nestled at the foothills of Cape Breton Island. The bikes were just a few feet from the ocean, yet parked by the doors to our rooms that had magnificent views. We were able to watch the sunset dance on the bay and the sunrise climb over the mountain the next morning. The Cove Motels restaurant offers a panoramic view of the bay. After such a fine day on the bikes, and a relaxing evening in such an unbelievable setting, how could our trip offer us more?
But the next morning began another spectacular dayanother 95-percent (+) day. There was a beautiful sunrise over the mountains, and we watched a flock of ducks on the calm bay waters begin their day as we were having breakfast in the motel restaurant. This day was the pinnacle of our trip. Our ride to Cape Breton Island and the Cabot trail began with a brilliant blue sky.
The Bible says, On the seventh day God rested. He looked at his work and remarked, It is good. One of the places he must have been looking at was this island. It is magnificent, and sharing it with others from the saddle of a motorcycle makes it more impressive.
We scheduled one day of our trip on Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail. Because we would only be there for a short time, several people recommended we run the route through the Cabot Trail counterclockwise through Baddeck (via Route 105). In that direction you are on the outside edge of the road as you pass from the Atlantic Ocean side of the trail to the St. Lawrence Gulf side of the island. By running counterclockwise, you do not have to continually cross the centerline into the scenic viewing areas. It is a lot to see in one day.
If you can spend more time in the area, try to run the Cabot Trail once clockwise and once counterclockwise. Both directions offer original and breathtaking views. The spectacular ocean views, steep cliffs and canyons offer vistas of unsurpassed beauty. There are many side roads and diversions along the trail, small towns with places to window shop, aerial viewing from a ski tow in Ingonish, and whale watching tours.
As we worked our way along the switchback roads running along the cliffs edge we stopped to enjoy the high outlook at Cape Smokey Provincial Park. This picnic and trail area allowed us to look back along the mountainous roads we had just climbed. We watched as a sailboat circled in the water below us while a pilot whale jumped and played around the boat. We stopped at Lakies Head further along the trail and viewed the bluffs along the coastline. Here we counted 16 or 17 pilot whales playing in the wake of a fishing trawler.
One-third of the Cabot Trail passes through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Information on the park (www.pc.gc.ca). states that due to climate and terrain, Cape Breton Island is a blend if habitats, plants, and animals with several dozen species of rare or threatened plants and animals. The variety of landscape and forested growth was remarkable. The cliffs and bluffs with steep ravines were one extreme we rode on and viewed, while other places were on top of the highlands of the mountains flat plateau. The tree growth varied from lush green forest to short scrub brush to rocky and sandy terrain.
Along the North Mountain, within the park, there are some steep climbs and descents interwoven with the sharp curves and views that drop off the edge of the road to the deep valley below. We picked up lunch-to-go at a stop along the way and enjoyed our meal beside the Grande Anse River, where the brook trout were as interested in our sandwiches as we were. At several of our stops we met up with bicyclists working the same routes, making us glad that we had the motorcycles.
At the Lakies Head stop earlier in the day, an informational sign described the fishing heritage of the people populating the island. Even today, the coastline villages are evidence of the residents ties to the sea. After following the gulf side of the coastline, the Cabot Trail circles from Margaree Forks back across the island to Route 105 just below Baddeck. We decided to continue down the gulf coast following the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19) through Inverness and Port Hood on our way back to the Canso Causeway and our bayside motel instead of circling back. This proved to be a nice relaxing route with very little traffic along the rugged coastline and rolling farmlands on Cape Bretons western shore. Our only regret, on this ride-perfect day, was that it drew to a close with many roads still unexplored.
The next dawn was another picture perfect morning and we had expectations of an anticlimactic ride as we left Aulds Cove and Cape Breton Island behind. But the great Nova Scotia weather and roads seemingly constructed with a motorcycle in mind quickly had us looking forward to another fine day. We made our way via Route 7 to the eastern seashore. This gently rolling secondary road offered very little traffic to share the road during our morning tour. Along the way we spotted a bald eagle resting in a roadside tree watching us pass.
Route 7, when it reaches the coastline, is called Marine Drive, another of the scenic byways in this beautiful province. This relaxing route weaves in and out of small villages and harbors. Again we were amazed at the beauty before us. Both nature and man offered us glimpses of near perfection, from the ocean inlets and rocky coast to the peaceful hamlets and the fishing boats nestled in the bays. All could be postcard scenarios or an artists rendition of the way life should be.
Once down the coastline and into the Halifax area, we negotiated the city traffic and made our way to Peggys Cove. This part of the Nova Scotia coastline is far different than anywhere we rode throughout our trip, and it is a must see. Approaching the Peggys Cove area along Route 333 the terrain looks like a rocky mountaintop or even an alien planet with large boulders and ledges protruding from fields with very little foliage. It contrasted the green Canadian coastline we had been watching all day. The granite boulder-laden shoreline is adorned with a picturesque lighthouse. Although not serving as an official seafarers beacon any longer, the lighthouse is billed as the only post office in a lighthouse. The smooth, well-worn rocks of the shore are great for exploring and people watching, and offer great views of the sea. This is known as some of the most photographed scenery in Nova Scotia. During our walk along the rocks we enjoyed watching yet another whale as it danced off shore. This was another place whose beauty called us to stay longer, but our schedule did not allow that pleasure. After lunch at the seaside restaurant at the Cove, we were on the move again.
A short distance from Peggys Cove, still along Route 333, is a memorial to Swiss Air Flight 111. In September 1998, this ill-fated plane crashed just off shore into the Atlantic Ocean. A steady stream of people made their way to pay their respects from the parking area to the boulder-hewn monuments near the coast erected in remembrance of the victims and the rescuers. A teddy bear holding a bouquet of flowers was resting against the memorial, a symbolic gesture left for a child who perished on the flight. It was still a beautiful sunny day but the somber vision reminded us of the innocent people who lost their lives in this beautiful spot.
We mounted up and began yet another of Nova Scotias scenic trails. Leaving Peggys Cove, Route 333 joins Route 3 and is the Lighthouse Route. This route, like the early Marine Route along Route 7, cuts through unforgettable landscape along the rugged coastline. Our stop for the evening was in Liverpool at the mouth of the Mersey River. Our nights lodging rested on the banks of the river, and, after dinner and a walk along the historic town, we watched sea otters play in the water.
Our final few hours in Nova Scotia brought us a wind-down day. We were up and on the road early to make our reservations for the catamaran, The Cat, in Yarmouth. While riding through one of the towns along the way, a deer gave us a start as well as some practice of our riding skills, as he darted out from between two houses and then changed his mind. Later we joked about having traveled through a wild land refuge area, hundreds of miles of forest and our encounter with four-legged scenery was in downtown! Just proves the point that it is wise to keep your skills sharp and to always be on guard for the unexpected.
There are two modes of waterway traffic from Yarmouth to Maine. The Scotia Prince sails daily to and from Portand, Maine (www.scotiaprince.com). The voyage is eleven hours and the ship offers tour packages and entertainment aboard. We chose the second option taking The Cat (www.catferry.com) from Yarmouth to Bar Harbor, Maine. This catamaran crosses the Atlantic in just under three hours. The catamaran runs at 55 mph and it was a smooth ride that saved us time and miles. We caught a glimpse of a school of dolphins running alongside the vessel as she made her way to the coast of Maine. While on board we were able to grab lunch, try our luck at the casino, and had time to stretch out and relax before disembarking and heading through U.S. customs. We were back in the States and on our final stretch of road back home.
- Here are a few pieces of information to share.
On crossing from the U.S. to Canada and back again. We had no problems crossing the border between the United States and Canada or back into the United States again. A basic principle to remember when you are planning your trip is when it includes a border crossing be sure you have proof of citizenship. A drivers license is not proof of citizenship. It must be combined with your passport or your birth certificate to be your proof of citizenship. And yes, we were asked if we had our birth certificates with us.
We were asked basic questions about our travels, any foods, alcohol, or tobacco that we were carrying and if we had any firearms. DO NOT try to transport firearms across the border. Remember that the inspectors are professionals trying to do a difficult job in todays world. Depending on the time of day and the crossing, there may be delays in getting through customs.
We noticed a few bikes in front of us when crossing back into the United States whose riders were asked to dismount and open their saddlebags and compartments. Even with these more thorough searches we were not delayed a great amount of time.
On making reservations. There were a number of nights our plans had us in specific towns and we had made reservations ahead of time. This included that great motel in Aulds Cove, NS. The Internet is a great source of information for the traveler. All the major hotel/motel chains have informational web pages, as do many of the mom and pop places.
Along with accommodation information, the Internet can help you search for points of interest in your travel area as well as routes of travel through Web pages like Mapquest at www.mapquest.com
Other days, when we did not have a specific destination in mind, we would look ahead the night before by general consensus to plot an area where we thought we might end up the next day. Then during our mid-morning break on the road we would call ahead using cell phones and the AAA travel guides to make reservations for that day.
Speaking of cell phones, I knew that my specific calling plan did not include Canada and that the roaming cost would kill any convenience or advantage to carrying a phone. I contacted my carrier before I left and added home coverage for the parts of Canada we would be traveling through for a nominal fee for the time we needed.
We also took advantage of the Canadian Tourism Information Centers. These informational centers not only provide great resources on area attractions, the on-duty staff can also help find accommodations and make reservations through their connected system of hotels and motels.
There was one day that we did not call ahead for reservations. Our planned stop for the day might have been anywhere within be a wide range of space within New Brunswick and we could not nail down a close proximity because of the stops we hoped to make and the traffic we might encounter in populated areas. As the end of the days ride approached, we watched for lodging signs along the route. The first motel we came to that we liked was full for the night. The staff at that motel made calls to other places in the general area and found us lodging for the night. So even the times we did not look ahead for reservations, we found adequate lodging even in peak tourist season.
On dealing with construction. We came to the conclusion that into every day a little construction must fall. Summertime is prime vacation time and also prime construction time. Nova Scotia had some wonderful roads. Not only do they seem to be great roads designed with motorcyclists in mind, they are well cared for. Patience is the word when we saw the construction signs (in French, English, and graphics alone).
We ran into gravel and sand, grooved roads, fresh asphalt, stone, and mud. We had long lines of slow traffic, stopped lines of traffic, and detours. Remember that the work crews are working in the hot sun while we are out enjoying the roads on our motorcycles. Keep your cool and plan on encountering road crews on the road; then you wont be surprised when you find them!
On planning ahead. Get together with your traveling partners and plan! There are many times when we are grumbling and going through bike withdrawal during the non-riding months. The planning we do for next seasons travels helps the trip go better and helps us get through those long winter months. We find that when you mix food with planning exercises, things go much better!
Nova Scotia and the Atlantic Provinces of Canada offer pristine land to enjoy, great seashores, wonderful people, and great riding roads. Each day turned out to be one of those 95-percent days, full of great weather, great roads, great riding, and great friends. In our ten-day trip we visited only a portion of the roads we would like to ride and the stops we would like to make. The up side is that gives us reason to start planning for the next trip. Come join us. Hummm, I think Ill bring my chili to the next planning meeting.
- Ed. Note: Author Bob Laford & Ed Brouillet have agreed to provide a seminar at the 2004 Americade on "Planning for a Long Distance Ride."
-
-
-
-
|
|